Dries van Noten Menswear Spring / Summer 2022 Collection


Dries van Noten Spring / Summer 2022 Men, Paris, France

Editor’s Note

One thing came to my mind when Dries Van Noten explained the Spring / Summer 2022 menswear show to Highsnobiety. “Freedom,” Van Notten said. “Restrictions [read: lockdown] You can boost your creativity. I didn’t want to create a collection in terms of fixed themes, especially shapes and fabrics, “but this is the easiest way to summarize the latest presentations of the six members from Antwerp. Of course, you can’t design for freedom. It means lazily assembling the dashboard housing. “I’m a control freak,” laughs Vannotten. “I want to control everything.

Van Notten has encouraged his team to really relax this season, opening the doors to a huge selection of lush clothing. “We wanted to make bespoke shirts and laser-cut jackets from very light polyester,” Vannotten said. “Dress up and have fun. Have fun. Go to a nightclub with your silk shirt on. The atmosphere is very noisy in costume, as against the backdrop of the current location of Antwerp. A tourist walking through the capital of Belgium dressed in the funniest shirts and craziest pants. Especially the pants are the key.

“In men’s fashion, there aren’t a lot of elements. [allow you] Play with the volume. [considering] The shape of the pants, the pants is a storytelling tool, ”Van Notten explained.[For instance,] When you look at silky pants, you think of the fun of the 80s. In men’s fashion, there aren’t many such elements. [allow you] Play with the volume. [considering] The shape of the pants, the pants are a tool to tell a story. “

This liquidity leads to loosen the barriers between the sexes. “It is not correct to say that this is men’s clothing. These are women’s clothing, ”continued Vannotten. Note that in appearance there are female models in the men’s lookbook – Vannotten’s next women’s lookbook will also include male models. “It’s not because the market asks me to do it, it’s just that I buy a lot of dough and then decide where the dough goes. I like to contrast [femininity] For the male elements of the collection. Likewise, we have this classic mohair suit, but we also made the most delicate sheer shirt ever. “

Freedom is not just a seasonal motif, it is a hallmark of the Dries van Noten brand. “I’ve seen a lot of ups and downs not only in my business but also in fashion,” Vannotten said. He knows it’s worth the effort to make your way out of the bigger industry. Indeed, the designer and his team are aware that they have to sell clothes (“We like the fact of making clothes to sell!”), But this is to comply with a passing trend. Does not mean. “We don’t do different things just to do something different from others. We always said we were going to do things our way.

Highsnobiety shopping list

Cat eye sunglasses

The foot-shaped oak shoes, puffy sandals, large bags and many other accessories of the FW21 conclude the vibrant collection. “Big bag, for me it’s something you can justify [owning] For a certain time. “

But it’s the giant sunglasses that steal the show. “I don’t like serious sunglasses. I like ironic things, ”continued Vannotten. “Even now, when I make giant cat eye style glasses for men, I lighten the glass a bit so that the people behind me can barely see it, but the mysterious element remains. It’s funny. That is to say .. “

Relaxed and reshaped couture

Couture has always been a staple of Dries Van Noten and also applies to SS22. A large and beautiful costume is here, mixed with refined military clues and a shirt printed with the works of two famous Belgian painters named Peter, Rubens and Bruegel. The blazer transforms into a chore coat, crafted in desert camouflage and topped with sweatpants, demonstrating a new era of faux form.

Outerwear in washed silk

Vannotten’s silk clothing this season is “fragile and fine, but lined with ultra-light cotton, you can feel the quality of the structure,” he said. They are “washed-out, easy and formal tips, but the lightness of enjoying life.” Even if the temperature is skyrocketing, you can wear a featherweight silk coat, hoodie or coat and hit the road wherever you are.

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